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Guest Columnist/Bijaya Jena (Visual Arts & Travel)
(Original photographs. Copyright: Author & Right Impact Media Inc).
I have been to Iran four times as a jury member for film festivals but before my trips, I have been intrigued by the Persian culture and wanted to know about their ancient language Avestan that contains almost 30 per cent Sanskrit words like Asura (lord), Medha (intelligence), Aatish (Agni/fire), Marga (death), Nav (new), Sthan/ Stan(place) and lastly Kastha (wood). Sapta (7) is Hafta. While Sindhu has become Hindu and Asura is Ahura in Avestan language.
The Zoroastrian religion worshipped Indian gods like Indra, Varun, Saraswati as Anahita. They called their land Airyanem (Arya - the civilized one), Vejah (seed) like our country Aryavarta. Darius the Great’s father Hystaspes studied in India under a Brahmin guru. Even our the Indian great University of Taxila had Persian administrators. At that time, we never had any war with each other but we traded and enriched each other’s culture. Borzoye, a 6th century scholar translated Panchatantra into Persian which even reached the Middle East and Europe.
Later in the 7th century, after the Turkic invasions of India which led to the Islamic regime in Delhi, India’s court language was Persian. So, we had Persian as the court language from 1210 till 1857. Bengal had Afghan rulers and also had Persian as the official language.
What I experienced in Iran during my earlier trips is that the common man takes pride in their 3000-years-old culture and celebrates Navroz on the spring equinox day. They also respect our shared ancestral relationships and culture. It is impressive to see that their cultural heritage and how the old archeological sites have been maintained so well.
Shiraz has been a major commercial hub due to its proximity to the Persian Gulf since antiquity besides, Hamadan, Keraman, Neyshabur, Isfahan, Tabriz, Ray (Teheran). Though it’s called the Silk Route, silk was not the only product being sold but also gems, jewelry, carpets, paper, spices and gunpowder by Chinese, Indian and other Asian merchants. This interaction helped exchange art, religion, philosophy, science, architecture and language across nations.
Shiraz has tombs of famous poets like Saadi and Hafez and a glittering tomb called Shah Cherag. The pink mosque is another attraction that has engravings in pink and looks ethereal when the first sunlight falls on it. The thriving market, Vakil Bazaar, that also housed merchants, with its arches retains the old world charm. It has fabrics, carpets, jewelry, nuts, sweets and spices all in one place. Like Indian markets, one can bargain for certain items. The old bath house is a must see place where men had oil massage, bath and discussed life while smoking the hookah.
My trip to Persepolis, just outside Shiraz, was one of the most memorable experiences of my life. Every pillar of the palace, built 2500 years ago by Darius the great, had engravings of various kings carrying their gifts for the court of the King. There is also an engraving of an Indian entourage bearing gifts. Darius constructed the massive terrace but his son Xerxes-1 completed the audience hall and built the Gate of All Nations which had 100 columns. Unfortunately, a part of the palace with wooden columns was demolished by the soldiers of Alexander the Great to take revenge of the attack on Athens by the Persians earlier. We missed the nearby Naqshe Rustom which has the tombs of the Achaemenid kings due to time constraints.
Besides Shiraz, I had been to another silk route city, Isfahan that has the biggest square in the world called Naqshe Jahan, Shah Mosque made with blue tiles and Ali Qapu palace. These are the marvels of Safavid kings. Another city in the north of Iran, I missed is Tabriz where the famous poet Shams Tabriz was born and which has old Armenian churches.
I was also pleasantly surprised to come across people who have visited India for yoga and Bipasana. I am sure any Indian who visits Iran will feel at home, relish their cuisine and especially pulao which we call biryani, samosa and sweets like gaz and Baklav and remember their hospitality.
Some localions shown are: Shiraz, Persepolis, Hafez Tomb, Vakil Bazaar, Vakil Bath house, Zand Palace, Pink Mosque, Narenjestan Garden, Qavam House.
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Bijaya Jena is a prolific Indian talent; a director, film producer, actress, scriptwriter and international juror. In her free time, she loves to travel to places that are a part of the cultural zeitgeist, and engages in philosophical debates and social anthropology.